"We spoke on phone a few weeks ago. I did what you said and some how they still don't turn on from the timer. They get power and have new solenoids in. There has to be something I'm over looking. Can you give me some more help? Thank you for your time. Ben"
Hi Ben,
Try checking the power coming to the valve with the solenoid connected to the power and disconnected from the power. If you have power coming in while disconnected, but then the power drops off when connected, you have a partial connection somewhere electrically upstream that is constricting the electricity.
If you are sure that the power is good, then you have a frozen valve that needs replacing. If you are not that comfortable reading a volt meter, take a brand new valve and connect it to the power, if you here the solenoid "click", then its the valve thats bad, not the power. Good Luck!
Showing posts with label sprinkler system repair. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sprinkler system repair. Show all posts
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Friday, April 4, 2008
Sprinkler Wiring
I received this question about sprinkler repair from Armando:
At the same time you could look for an extra wire in the controller. Possibly the unconnected wire in the valve box is a spare.
On a ESP controller it is difficult to insert a prong from a voltage meter into the terminal. Insert a 2" piece of wire into the common terminal and the same for zone one. Then check for power coming out of the controller.
You can also try re-slicing the the common connection to the valve closet to the controller. If that common splice is bad none of the other valves electrically down stream will work.
Hunter valve solenoids have an arrow on top pointing to the direction to open them manually.
Turn it in that direction slowly until you hear the water flowing through it. Be careful not to turn it to far because it could pop out and make a mess!
I have a Rain Bird ESP-6TM Controller that’s 8 years old with Hunter valve/solenoids. And was working fine until last summer. The problem seems to be between the the valves and the controller as it shows the correct time and station yet doesn’t communicate to valves to open or close.
I did some messing around with the wiring at the valve box and seem to have an extra wire that goes somewhere. In addition I don’t know how tight or loose the solenoids should be to be considered on without manual operation.
Hi Armando;
At the same time you could look for an extra wire in the controller. Possibly the unconnected wire in the valve box is a spare.
On a ESP controller it is difficult to insert a prong from a voltage meter into the terminal. Insert a 2" piece of wire into the common terminal and the same for zone one. Then check for power coming out of the controller.
You can also try re-slicing the the common connection to the valve closet to the controller. If that common splice is bad none of the other valves electrically down stream will work.
Hunter valve solenoids have an arrow on top pointing to the direction to open them manually.
Turn it in that direction slowly until you hear the water flowing through it. Be careful not to turn it to far because it could pop out and make a mess!
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